Exakta – 6×6 – Repair Manual

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Repair of Repair of Exakta Exakta 6×6, 2 1/4”, Single Lens Reflex 6×6, 2 1/4”, Single Lens Reflex
Exakta 6×6
No. 602246
Access to Film Counter & Winding Mechanism
For convenience remove the lens. The lens release is on the left
side of the camera and just to the rear of the lens. Hold the
button back and turn the lens counter clockwise.
Lay the camera with the right side up and the rear to your left as
in the figures. All the screws are right hand thread. Remove the
screws in the shutter speed dial and the delayed action knob.
Unscrew the two-holed spanner nut in the delayed action knob.
Remove the flat spanner screw (counter reset button) just below
and in front of the speed dial, and below that the release button
locking lever. For the winding key remove the center screw and
then the spanner nut underneath (as normal this spanner nut
has two holes in it for a wrench. But note that one of the holes
has a very small set screw in it to lock its position. Mark the
position of the nut, loosen the set screw and unscrew the nut).
Around the outer edge of the cover plate there are six flat head
screws which show through the leatherette. If these screws have
green material (interaction between brass and grease in the leatherette on
the cover plate) around them, they should be cleaned before reinstalling.
Remove all six.
Caution: When lifting off the cover plate do not lift the gear (winding gear
under the winding key) enough to unmesh it from the other gears.
Page 1/7Viewing the gears
Set the camera with its base facing
you, and the lens opening to the right.
Figure 1, shows the mechanism, with
the outside dials and knobs replaced.
To the top left is the Exposure
Counting Wheel (A), to the the top
right is the Shutter Speed Dial (B). In
the middle is the Cocking Wheel/
Winding Gear (C) and below that and
to the right is the Time Delayed Action
Dial (D). To its right is the shutter
release button (SB)
Fig. 1.
Figure 2, shows the same gears
with the knobs removed. Now an
intermediate gear (E) between the
winding gear (C) and that drives the
film counting dial, can be seen.
Also, a double intermediate gear (F)
between the winding gear and the
film speed gear (B). Below and to
the left of the winding gear is a gear
(G) and a lower ratchet mechanism
(H), that stops double exposures.
This is all in the uncocked position.
Fig. 2.
Counter & Winding Gears (Retiming)
General:- If retiming of the gears becomes necessary, begin by
removing the winding gear (C), the counter dial (A) and the gear (E)
between the dial and the winding gear. Remove the gear (G) with
the double ratchet just below and slightly behind the winding gear.
Replace the speed dial (B) and set it to Bulb. Turn the dial counter
clockwise (there is an arrow indicating the correct direction) until
the mirror is lowered into viewing position and the shutter is
cocked. Just below the speed dial is a horizontal bar (L. Fig. 3)
which locks the shutter-releasing linkages. Push the front of this
bar up enough so that the shutter release button can be pushed
(Fig 2. SB).
Page 2/7
HCock and release the shutter a number
of times while noting its action.
On the underside of the winding gear
(C) is a positioning (stud) pin (Fig 3, C.
See triangular mark on its the bottom
left). With the shutter in released
position, set the winding gear on its
post with that bottom stud counter
clockwise as far as it will go (against a
substantial stud in the underlying
mechanism plate) – as in Fig. 3. At
this position, mesh the winding gear
with the intermediate gear (E) between the winding gear and the
speed dial gear. You can now set the winding key on its square post and
wind, and release the shutter.
Replace the ratchet gear (G. Fig. 2) which meshes with the
winding gear at 7 o`clock. Just below this gear is a bracket (H. Fig. 4)
which is positioned by two spring loaded toggles. That bracket has a
upward pointing curved arm (not shown – hidden by gear G). When
replacing the ratchet gear, its position
must be such that the pin on its lower
side when rotated to maximum counter
clockwise, strikes the upper end of the
bracket arm, causing it to pivot to the
right. When this happens the left ratchet
will engage the bottom teeth on the gear
and prevent further motion of the winding
gear when it returns to rest – until the
shutter is released. More on this below.
Before replacing the gear it is advisable
to scribe the position of the lower pin on
the upper surface (see mark on G in Fig. 4)
When the shutter is released, the gear rotates clockwise and
the bracket moves back into its former position. The bracket is held in
either of its two positions by the V-notches on its bottom end (V). The
mesh of this ratchet gear to the winding gear (C) must be very precise.
Fig. 3.
Fig. 4.
Page 3/7If it doesn`t turn far enough on cocking, the pin on its bottom side will not
pivot the bracket to the right. Then the right ratchet toggle will not
disengage, and the winding gear cannot return to the rest position. On the
other hand, if it turns too far it will engage the left and lower ratchet toggle
before the shutter and mirror are fully wound. Again, the meshing of all
the gears must be very exact. One tooth can mean the difference
between the mechanism working properly, or not at all. In the uncocked
position, it is advised to position the gear with its pin very close to the
right hand ratchet as shown by the mark in Fig 4, before beginning precise
adjustment. More about this all later.
It is advisable to check all the teeth of this gear – there may be
considerable wear and spalling –
clean up as necessary.
Counter gear:- timing of the counter
gear is the most difficult of all. It is
here that many problems occur,
since the force of the winding gear
on the film take-up roller drive
gear (FD, seen at 12 o`clock under
the counter intermediate
gear (E, Fig. 2) has caused
wear. If there is any spalling
(fraying) of the gear teeth,
these should be smoothed off with very fine abrasive paper and polished.
Fig. 5, shows the gear underneath the intermediate gear (E)
which has an upper ratchet gear, a thin gear segment (TGS), and a lower
intermediate gear that drives the film take-up roller drive gear (FD. Fig 3)
On the side opposite of the teeth of the thin gear segment is a partial
curved raised extension about 3/8″ long, which comes above the teeth of
the upper ratchet gear. This is referred to as the segment hub (SH). On
the bottom of the intermediate gear (E – shown upside down in Fig. 5)),
there are two ratchet toggles.
Notice the gear on the back side of the counter dial (A. Fig. 1)
and how one half of a gear tooth is cut away – look closely. Notice that the
intermediate gear (E) has a 1/8″ hole in it, just over one of the ratchet
Fig. 5.
Page 4/7 Making sure that the springs are in proper position on the toggles on the
bottom side of the intermediate gear, place the gear on its post with the
hole in at approximately the 6:30 position. You will have to reach through
the hole with a prick and hold the ratchet toggle back so that it can go
down over the top ratchet gear.
If you have the gear positioned properly, the other toggle on the bottom
side will be seen sticking out from under the gear at 9 o`clock. With the
prick, reach underneath the intermediate gear and turn the thin gear
segment (TGS) so that the cutout edges are facing straight up and down
and the teeth are facing toward the right (as in Fig. 5). While holding the
segment in this position, place the counter dial on the post with numeral
4 slightly past 12 o`clock. On the underside of the counter dial, and
positioned between numerals 3 and 4, is a stop pin which, when the dial
is turned counter clockwise, will come to rest against the post under
numeral 4. This post is fastened into the underlying mechanism plate.
With the gear segment in the above position, lower the dial into position,
meshing the gear on its bottom side with the gear segment and the film
take-up drive gear. Notice the outside of the counter dial – its edge has
shallow V`s cut between each number, forming a cam. The bar (Fig 2, L)
mentioned before (which locks the release linkage) is controlled by this
counter dial cam. The follower on the left end of the bar fits into the V`s
in the dial and leaves the release linkage in the release positions, except
when the last frame has been exposed. Then the follower drops into the
deeper V between the 9 and 10 numerals and locks the release linkage
at the other end.
If the intermediate gear (E) is positioned correctly with the gear segment
and segment hub in the V between numerals 10 and 11, then you should
be able to look though the hole in the gear and see the toggle engaged
with the ratchet, and the toggle just clearing the lower end of the segment
There is a good reason for the segment hub. As the take-up film roll gets
larger with every frame, the roller has to be turned less. Each time the
film is wound and the wind gear returns to the rest position, the ratchet
toggle backs up farther. On each successive winding cycle, the segment
hub holds this toggle out of engagement with the ratchet for a longer
period of time.
Page 5/7One more thing to mention is the advancing of the counter dial. On
the bottom of intermediate gear (E) there are the two previously
mentioned toggles. One is for the lower ratchet gear. The other,
which rests at the 9 o`clock position underneath the gear, strikes the
counter dial gear just enough to advance it one number. When the
last frame is exposed and the red F shows in the window, the toggle
falls into the cutout tooth in the dial gear that was mentioned before.
If timing is off between the wind gear and the intermediate gear, the
counter will either not advance or advance too much. In this case lift
wind gear (C) just enough to allow turning the intermediate gear one
or more teeth either way to make an adjustment.
Adjustment of the Anti-Double exposure gear (Fig 4.). See Fig 4.
This gear (G) and its double ratchet toggle is operated by the winding
gear. As the winding gear is turned clockwise to advance the film and
cock the shutter, the gear (G) turns counter clockwise. The right
ratchet stops the winding gear from being turned counter clockwise
before a full cocking sequence is completed. As gear G turns, the pin
on the underside engages the curved arm on the upper part of the
toggle (not shown). This moves the toggle to the right and disengages
the ratchet on the right and engages the left ratchet on the underside
set of teeth as the winding knob reaches its full cocking motion
clockwise. When the winding knob is then released and springs back
to its original position, this disallows any further turning of the winding
knob clockwise, hence stopping further film advance. The toggle is
held in either of these two positions by V-shaped notches and a
ratchet below (V). When the shutter is released, a long lever (LL, Fig.
4) lifts the double ratchet toggle up and to the left into its winding
position to allow new film advance. That long lever is moved by a pin
under the double intermediate gear (F. Fig. 3) between the winding
gear and the shutter speed gear.
To see the upper end of that long lever the film counter lever (L, Fig 3)
will need to be removed. Take care to replace the spring (SP). The
gear F is double. The upper one has a lower pin that contacts a similar
one on the bottom gear and these drive the lower gear that meshes
with the small shutter gear (SG), which can be seen between the
shutter speed gear and the double intermediate gear (Fig. 3).
Page 6/7Now the problem is that the underneath pin on the bottom gear must
move the long lever at the end of the shutter release sequence. That
is, the double intermediate gears move clockwise and that lower pin
must contact the long lever and move it up enough so that its L-
shaped lower end moves the double ratchet toggle (H. Fig. 4) to the
left. If it does not, then gear (G) will jam the winding mechanism. If
so, the lower intermediate gear (F) must be lifted and rotated
clockwise one tooth (or more).
NB Doing the above might require resynchronising all the gears and
this can be an iterative process.
Replacing the cover
When replacing the winding knob make sure that the two-
holed locking ring is not tightened too much. The minute locking screw
should be able to be completely screwed in. Otherwise the winding
knob will bind against the cover and not move freely.
Adapted From: 564/SPT Service Notes, Robert C. Voiles, Moses
Lake, Washington
Douglas A. Craig, Edmonton, Canada. September, 2000.
E-mail:- d.craig@ualberta.ca
Page 7/7

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